Ireland’s forty shades of green.
I have just returned from Ireland, and like the Johnny Cash song, I am still dreaming of the wonderful Emerald Isle. After connecting through Toronto, my sister and I arrived in Dublin excited to experience the Irish culture and soak in the beauty.
Dublin seemed to surprise me each day. Did you know the original pronunciation is Duvlin? We explored the city with vigor as we walked 5 – 10 kms a day. Whether it was grabbing an Irish Coffee to-go and wondering down O’Connell Street to the “Portal to New York” (a public art installation that provides a real-time, unfiltered video link between New York City and Dublin) or picking up a takeaway and sitting in St. Stephen’s Green near the lake to enjoy watching the swans and the people, we loved our time there.
A wee bit of what we managed to do in our days in Dublin…
One of our first stops was the Guinness Storehouse. My goodness, that building is enormous, and so fascinating. I have always enjoyed a good Guinness, and somehow having one there seemed to taste even better. Another highlight was Dublinia, a museum that shows that focus on the Viking Age to the medieval times. It’s adjacent to Christ Church Cathedral which is quite beautiful inside.
We also did a walking tour around the city, which brought us through the Dublin Castle gardens and Trinty College. Trinty College is massive and it is the oldest college in Ireland. It was quite interesting to hear the history.
If you are looking for something fun and unique to do, the Gravediggers bus tour was a hoot. I laughed for 2 hours straight, as the actors were quite hilarious. It focuses on some of the dark times in Dublin with stops at St Audeon’s Church, Kilmainham Gaol, and Glasnevin Cemetery.
From Dublin, I also organised a day trip to the Boyne Valley. This included walking up the Hill of Tara, Loughcrew (pronounced Lock crew), Trim Castle and the Fore Distillery, and Fore Abbey ruins. It was quite fun to explore the ruins and imagine life centuries ago. Hill of Tara and Loughcrew are cairns, meaning tombs. Hill of Tara was known to be the meeting place of the kings and held many ceremonies back in the day. Loughcrew is quite steep so ensure you have shoes that can handle the climb (one gal had on heels, and the struggle was real). I took my boots off to just feel the grass under me.
After our explorations in Dublin, we joined a Collette Tour, the Shades of Ireland. This is an excellent way to get a feel for the country when you only have a short amount of time to explore. Our driver Michael and guide Denis were very entertaining and full of historical facts about Ireland. A couple of times we did a sing-along while we drove. I believe I still have Rattling Bog stuck in my head.
Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland, and once again the presence of the Vikings was felt here. Whether you are here to shop for mesmerizing crystal or learn more about the Vikings, this city has many charms. I would like to go back and spend a few days here to explore the walking trails.
Blarney Castle was our next stop. It was a 90-minute wait, including standing on the narrow spiral stairs to kiss the stone. I chose to explore the gardens and caves instead. I was awestruck by the beauty surrounding the castle. I am still dreaming about these gardens and the structures throughout.
Killarney was amazing. The National Park is 102.9 km², with many lakes, walking trails, and historical ruins of Ross Castle, monasteries, and more. We did a jaunting ride to Ross Castle and then took a cruise on Lough (pronounced Lock) Leane. It was a lovely way to see inside the park and listen to the guide talk about various points.
The Ring of Kerry was almost a full day of travelling around and seeing the various points of interest. On our way to Galway, we stopped for a sheepdog demonstration. I may or may not have tried to smuggle a baby lamb home. I would like to go back to Galway and explore a bit more, the city has an entertaining vibe. Quay (pronounced key) and Shop Street are pedestrian streets with street performers, shops, and dining all around.
Next up was the famed Cliffs of Moher. The pathway narrows to an impressive viewpoint. The views are lovely up top, and I would like to go back someday and view them from the sea on a boat trip. A stop at Kilbeggan Distillery was my favourite distillery. They still have the original setup from the 18th century, all the way to the new machinery. You can really see how the distilling process has evolved over the centuries.
And lastly, we stayed overnight at Cabra Castle, about an hour north of Dublin Airport. This was something special for our last night, and I do wish we had stayed longer. It was lovely to walk around the grounds and briefly inside the main part of the 19th-century castle.
Ireland has captured my heart and imagination in ways I never expected. It is a magical place, full of myths and legends.
Written for Paull Travel by Deanna Ross, May 2025
