Barcelona to Paris & the lavender fields in-between.
Late June is a wonderful time to arrive in Europe… warm days, lavender fields in bloom, and that intoxicating hum of summer travel. My husband and I flew from Edmonton to Barcelona via Toronto, and despite crossing the Atlantic, the flights felt quick and easy. In Barcelona, we stayed at the Sir Victor Hotel, a cool and trendy property that’s a member of Design Hotels. With a boutique vibe and a great location just north of the Gothic Quarter and steps from the Passeig de Gràcia (a luxe shopping street), it was the perfect base for our short but jam-packed visit.
For a design lover like me, Barcelona was heaven. In just 48 hours, we squeezed in as many Gaudí masterpieces as we could: Casa Batlló, the stunning Sagrada Família, and the colorful mosaic wonderland of Parc Güell. Be sure to book tickets in advance for these sites, especially for the Sagrada Família, which is absolutely worth it. We wandered around the city, soaked up the architecture, and enjoyed our most delicious meal alongside glasses of cava sangria at Petit Tapas in the Gothic Quarter. Barcelona was lively, artistic, and full of a magnetic charm that is hard to describe. I will certainly be back someday for a longer stay.
After our whirlwind 48 hours in Spain, we hopped on the high-speed train to the south of France. In just 4 hours, we arrived in Arles and made our way to the AmaKristina, which would be our homebase for the next 7 days as we cruised the Rhône with AmaWaterways. Checking in was as simple and smooth as any high-end hotel and we were able to leave our luggage while they prepared our stateroom. With time to spare, we strolled into the historic center to enjoy a sun-drenched lunch overlooking the Roman Amphitheatre that Arles is well-known for.
Back on board, we settled into our stateroom. One of the best parts of river cruising is only unpacking once as you travel through so many different charming towns in Europe. For our first evening onboard, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with regional wines .The food on Ama is another standout compared to other river cruises. No buffets for lunch or dinner, just a la carte menus, local ingredients, and unique daily specials. And regional wines as well as beer and soft drinks are always included with lunch and dinner. Seating is open, which gave us the opportunity to meet some interesting fellow passengers throughout the week, or dine on our own if we didn’t feel like socializing.
If you're sailing with Ama, I highly recommend booking the Chef’s Table dinner at reception as soon as you check-in (this is a great multi-course dining experience that is included once per sailing). Book for mid-week on a day with fewer excursions so you have time to dress up and savor the experience. If you’re interested in a massage in the spa cabin onboard, you can reserve it at this time too (spots fill up fast!)
The next morning, after a lovely breakfast, we joined a Van Gogh walking tour of Arles. Our guide led us to the famed Yellow House, the hospital where Van Gogh was admitted after cutting off his ear, and other sites that inspired iconic paintings. Later that day, we visited the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence. It looked like it had been pulled straight from a Provençal fairytale, complete with stone cottages, tiny chapels, and little art galleries tucked into narrow alleyways. We also toured a family-run olive oil farm and got to learn all about the olive cultivation process as well as taste their incredible oils.
AmaWaterways includes all excursions, which sets it apart from many other river cruise lines which often only include a basic walking tour, with more “premium” choices being an upcharge. Before your trip, you can browse and pre-select from daily options on the AmaWaterways app. For most ports, there are at least 2-3 options to choose from and for many tours, you can also choose your desired activity level - gentle, normal, or active pace. For bike tours or special exclusive experiences (like a chocolate & red wine tasting in a French château for example), it’s best to register in advance as these tours are capacity controlled. That said, if there’s availability while you are onboard, you can always switch as you go or add your name to a waitlist if an excursion is full.
The next morning, we explored Avignon’s charming streets and the impressive Papal Palace which served as the pope’s residence during the 14th century. The history was fascinating and our local guide was incredibly passionate and informative.
In the afternoon, we drove to the Pont du Gard, the ancient Roman aqueduct which is featured on the five-euro note. We elected to hike up to touch the top of the aqueduct and enjoy the view, while others packed their swimwear to take a dip in the river below and cool off from the heat (and yes, it was HOT).
The following day brought my favorite excursion of the trip. We drove through postcard-worthy lavender fields just outside Grignan, perfectly timed for the peak bloom in late June. It was breathtaking… an endless sea of purple beneath the hilltop castle. Our guide informed us that we had arrived just in time for the final few days before the annual harvest. If you are someone who simply must see the lavender while in Provence, June is the best month (preferably mid-June).
After a photo-op at the lavender fields, we visited a family-owned truffle farm where we met Gilles, a 4th generation truffle farmer who graciously toured us around his family estate. Gilles introduced us to his beloved golden labradors, who were very happy to show off their sniffing skills beneath the oak trees. After learning a bit about the art of truffle farming, we watched the dogs at work while they dug up fresh white summer truffles. We enjoyed them shaved over bread, paired with truffle oil and a glass of rosé. It was heavenly.
Back on the ship, we swapped stories with others who had visited different family farms during their excursions and compared dog photos over dinner.
The next morning, we ventured to Ardèche for a ride on an old-fashioned steam train through the countryside. It was a train to nowhere (literally), but the views were incredible! After all, travel is all about the journey, not just the destination.
During our port talk that evening, our cruise manager Rachel let us know we’d be docking just in time for the Vienne’s annual jazz festival and shared that she had heard there would be a free light show at the town hall that evening. She offered to lead a late-night walk for those that were interested, and it was such a lovely surprise!
After dinner, we watched the sunset on the top deck as we docked in Vienne then headed off to the town centre after the sun had dipped below the horizon. Watching the lights dance on the historic façade, surrounded by locals and new friends, was one of those unexpected moments that makes travel magical. In my opinion, this is part of what makes river cruising special: spontaneous moments in small towns you’ve never heard of but will never forget.
In Vienne the next day, we joined an active walking tour following the footsteps of the Romans. After exploring the ruins and the city, we ventured off on our own to pick up some fresh pastries from a boulangerie and headed back to the ship for lunch before we departed for Lyon. That afternoon, a local silk artisan came aboard to share the story of Lyon’s famed textiles and offer traditional silk scarves for purchase in the lounge.
In the late afternoon, we arrived in Lyon, France’s second city and culinary capital, and headed into town for some shopping. Being docked right in the heart of the city makes it so easy to venture out and explore on your own. That evening (July 1), we were surprised to see a Canadian flag cake displayed at the entrance to the restaurant when we went for dinner, a sweet gesture from the for all the Canadian guests onboard for Canada Day!
The next morning, we explored Lyon’s Old Town and took in sweeping views from the Basilica. After a BBQ lunch back on the ship, we visited the Beaujolais wine region and sampled a few glasses at a boutique vineyard surrounded by the region’s famed golden stone buildings. It felt like a slice of Tuscany in France! It was the perfect way to wrap up our last day onboard.
After disembarking our ship, it was a quick 2-hour TGV train ride to Paris. We checked into Hotel Belloy, a lovely boutique hotel in Saint-Germain on the left Bank, an ideal area to stay with proximity to great restaurants, lovely shops, quaint cafes, and easy access to the Paris metro (not to mention the perfect amount of Parisian charm).
Paris was everything I imagined it would be. Between a Michelin-starred tasting menu at Frenchie restaurant, buttery croissants at our neighborhood patisserie, macarons at Pierre Hermé, velvety hot chocolate at Angelina, and trendy truffle pasta at Pink Mamma, I was in a constantly blissful food coma. We spent hours getting lost in the Louvre, admired Monet’s water lilies at the Musée de l’Orangerie, and gawked at couture through the decades at the Dior Museum. From Montmartre to the Champs-Élysées, wandering down the streets of Paris was a dream come true.
On our last day, we rose early to catch the train to Versailles (purchase tickets in advance, I recommend getting the 1st time slot of the day to avoid the crowds). The Palace is gorgeous and overwhelming. After marveling at the interiors, including the stunning Hall of Mirrors, we made our way into the gardens where we decided to rent a golf cart to better explore the grounds. It was a lot of fun and made for a great way to see the expansive estate.
From Barcelona’s architecture to Provence’s dreamy lavender hills to Paris’ iconic charm, this was a very special trip that I would love to relive over and over! And yes, I’m already planning a return… if nothing else, just for the croissants.
Written for Paull Travel by Morgan Winter, August 2025
