Maritme magic: from Peggy’s Cove to PEI.
It’s funny how you can live your whole life in Canada, travel to countless places around the world, and yet never visit one of the most spectacular regions right here at home – the Maritimes! Finally, this spring my husband and I set out to explore Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.
We flew into Halifax via Toronto with Air Canada, picked up our rental car and headed to Lunenburg. We took the scenic route through the bays of St. Margaret’s and Mahone. The views are incredible, and it is definitely worth taking the extra time.
Lunenburg itself is a charming town, recognized as both a UNESCO World heritage Site and a national historic district. The colorful historic buildings in this fishing village are so well preserved and full of character! Lunenburg is also home to the famous Bluenose tall ship. Unfortunately, we were a few days too early to see her in all her glory with her masts up. We stayed at the Salt Shaker Inn, our room was quaint and cozy, and the seafood chowder at the deli below was fantastic!
Next, we crossed the province to the pretty town of Annapolis Royal. Known as the “Cradle of Canada” this area saw the first French attempt to settle in 1605… over 420 years ago! Despite harsh winters, they kept the settlement going for eight years until, in 1613, the British came from Massachusetts and burned the settlement to the ground. We visited the Port Royal National Historic Site, a reconstruction of the original settlement. It gives a great sense of the challenges faced by the Acadians as well as their friendship with the Mi’kmaq people.
In town, we explored the Royal Historic Gardens – 17 acres of beautiful, peaceful gardens that delighted this self-proclaimed bird lady thanks to the many bird species we spotted.
Annapolis Royal might be small, but it offers excellent local cuisine. We enjoyed a glass of wine and charcuterie down by the Annapolis River at the Mad Hatter Wine Bar, and enjoyed a tasty meal at the Whiskey Teller, found in a building that once housed the Bank of Nova Scotia in the late 1800s.
After two nights it was time to move on toward Digby to catch the ferry to New Brunswick. On the way, we stopped at Bear River Vineyards, recently featured in the Globe & Mail as a must-see-hidden gem. It truly lived up to the hype – with a beautiful setting, friendly owners, and divine wine!
The ferry ride from Digby to St. John was just under 2.5 hours – from there we drove to St. Andrews by the Sea. I instantly fell in love and can understand why it’s called the prettiest town in New Brunswick. We stayed at the Treadwell Inn, a lovely six-room boutique property in the heart of town. Our room had a balcony with a great sea view (sadly, it was too rainy to use but would be perfect on a sunny day). The Chandler Room Wine Bar downstairs served delicious tapas and, of course, more great wine!
Just outside of town, we visited the historic Algonquin Resort, which has been welcoming guests for over a century and boasts one of Canada’s top golf courses. We enjoyed a nice dinner there, but our real reason for visiting was the nightly ghost tour - great fun, and one of the ghosts did make their presence known!
Another highlight here was Ministers Island. It is a national historic site and a tidal island – which can only be reached during low tide. Don’t stay too long, or you’ll be staying until the tide recedes again! This was once the summer home of Sir William Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Fun fact – Mr. Van Horne was contracted to finish the railway in 10 years but did it in just over 5, earning a million-dollar bonus – a fortune at that time!
From St. Andrews, we headed north to Shediac, known as the lobster capital of the world (and home to the world’s largest lobster statue). We stayed at the Tait House by Bower Hotels, a charming nine-room restored heritage home.
Shediac is a perfect base to explore all the area has to offer. A highlight was our visit to Fundy National Park and Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park. Hopewell Rocks is an absolute must-see! The massive Bay of Fundy tides have sculpted over twenty towering sea stacks along two kilometers of shoreline. At high tide, these formations are partly submerged, but at low tide - as we saw - you can walk right on the ocean floor among them. It’s breathtaking and surreal.
Fundy National Park also amazed us with stunning views and gorgeous hiking trails. Short on time, we did the Dickson Falls loop - a great choice! The drive through the park itself offers plenty of scenic viewpoints.
Just outside the park gates, we discovered Alma, a tiny village famous for the world’s highest tides. We stopped at the Tipsy Tails overlooking the bay and enjoyed one of the best seafood chowders of our trip!
Our next stop was Prince Edward Island. Though we only had one night in this wonderful province, we packed in as much as we could! After crossing the Confederation Bridge, our first stop was the Bottle Houses and Gardens in Wellington – three unique buildings made entirely of thousands of glass bottles. The chapel, tavern, and six-gabled house built in 1980 (with about 12,000 bottles) are incredible works of folk art.
We then visited the Green Gables Heritage Place to learn about local author Lucy Maud Montgomery, whose classic Anne of Green Gables was inspired by this area and its trails which she visited often. After that, we took a scenic drive through Prince Edward Island National Park to Shaw’s Beach and Covehead Lighthouse. Our final stop on PEI was Charlottetown. I must admit I wasn’t expecting much, but was pleasantly surprised by its historic buildings, lively Victoria Row pedestrian area, and charming vibe!
We had planned to take the 75-minute ferry from Wood Islands back to Nova Scotia, but rain and high winds canceled the crossing. So, back we went across the Confederation Bridge, turning what should have been a five-hour travel day into eight and a half….just an unplanned travel adventure! Fun fact – it’s free to cross the Confederation Bridge going to PEI, but it costs about $50.00 if you want to leave – a bit like Hotel California!
After a long day of travel, we arrived in Baddeck, Nova Scotia - yet another quaint little town. We stayed just outside the town at the Silver Dart Lodge.
The next day, we drove the world famous Cabot Trail – a truly epic coastal drive of rugged cliffs and spectacular scenery. If time permits, I would recommend taking a few days and staying in some of the towns along the way. We used the Tripvia app ($12.00CAD) for a guided audio tour, which really enhanced the experience.
Cape Breton is famous for its live music. In Cheticamp, we stumbled upon the Doryman Pub for a quick bite on a Saturday afternoon, only to find ourselves at a musical party with Howie MacDonald (who toured for many years with the Rankin Family). The atmosphere was electric, and the fiddle playing was outstanding!
While in Baddeck, we also visited the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site – highly recommended! Bell’s work went far beyond the telephone; he and his wife were innovators in many fields.
The final stop on our Maritimes adventure was Halifax. Of course, we couldn’t miss Peggy’s Cove with its iconic lighthouse and charming fishing village. Back in Halifax, we strolled the waterfront boardwalk, and visited the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, where I even looked up my Dad’s departure record from the Netherlands – very special! We also toured the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where we learned about the Titanic’s fateful trip as well as the devastating 1917 Halifax explosion. We could have spent more time here as it has lots to offer.
Halifax is quite hilly, so bring good walking shoes. On our last evening we took a ghost walk tour – a fun and spooky way to learn more about the city’s history.
We spent two weeks in the Maritimes and could easily have stayed two more. Everywhere we went, people were warm, welcoming, and happy to share local tips and hidden gems. Life here feels slower and friendlier. Combined with the breathtaking scenery and rich history, it truly made for an unforgettable trip!
Written for Paull Travel by Norene Coley, July 2025
